specs for R6 engine

Land Rover Series vehicles - The golden oldies

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guido richert
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Joined: 11 Apr 2013 16:14

specs for R6 engine

Postby guido richert » 11 Apr 2013 16:22

hi all....have a 86 model with R6 engine and looking for specs...had head skimmed, new solid copper gasget made and need specs re timing setting, torque for headbolts etc...anyone who can help? thanx Guido

jakeslouw
Posts: 458
Joined: 25 Jul 2008 10:53

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby jakeslouw » 11 Apr 2013 18:00

Send me an email at jakeslouw AT gmail DOT com and I'll send you the relevant pages from the manual
1962 Series 2A Pickup
Ex: 1984 110 3.5 V8 Pickup
Ex: 1989 110 3.5 V8 County SW

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James21
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Joined: 27 Jul 2012 17:14
Location: Plettenberg Bay

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby James21 » 12 Apr 2013 17:20

I am no expert on the R6 but I do believe that you have to replace the head bolts with new ones as they are of the stretch type. If you don’t you end up blowing the head gasket.
Also the engine should not be bored out if you need to replace pistons, stay with standard size pistons as the gap between piston 5 and 6 become to narrow and then you have the problem of the head gasket blowing out between the two pistons. Rather re sleeve as it is a better option.
I have also heard that the R6 Engine is actually an Austen Princess 2.2l engine (fitted to the Rover SD1s 2600) that they gave a longer stroke to make it a 2.6l. So if you can’t get new head bolts for the R6 maybe you can try the SD1s engine.
Perhaps someone else on the forum can confirm this.
Best of Luck
James
:shock: :!: :?:

guido richert
Posts: 2
Joined: 11 Apr 2013 16:14

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby guido richert » 13 Apr 2013 07:59

thanx james for your info and jake i'll mail you now...cheers G

JGP1980
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Joined: 01 Jul 2013 00:16

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby JGP1980 » 01 Jul 2013 00:45

Hi, did you manage to find those head bolts? I'm not 100% certain but I don't think the Rover SD1 (UK variation) was fitted with the same straight 6 as the SA variation which carried the BMC E-series engine (which was fitted to the series 3S/R6) and I'm not convinced that the bolts are the same. The correct part number for the R6 head bolts is CAM 2694. I have spent the last two years searching the planet for a (NEW) set of those very same bolts....and yesterday I ordered what I believe to be very nearly the last obtainable set! I will compare the correct bolts with the UK SD1 bolts as soon as they arrive and let you all know if they are the same....in which case I will kick myself for spending as much as I did! My R6 has fairly low compression and struggles to start. I have had the head skimmed and the valves reseated but the problem persists. There is no smoke when running and I'm sure the engine isn't missing. How would I go about re-sleeving the pistons? If anybody has done this before please could you let me know how it went?

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James21
Posts: 14
Joined: 27 Jul 2012 17:14
Location: Plettenberg Bay

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby James21 » 03 Jul 2013 13:30

Well I did say I was no expert, but this link seems to confirm what I was saying:
http://www.lr-mad.co.uk/en/series-iii-s Look under the comments section where a guy named Charles (who I think might be our very own Tanisia) said the following:
RE: Series III S R6 — Charles 2013-01-30 10:26
E6 engine was used in the Uk in the Austin Princess, so to get parts for the R6 order Austin Princess parts, the only thing that was different on the R6 is that the R6 had a longer stroke to give it the 2.6l config and the Austin Princess was a 2.2


Re-sleeving takes place on the engine block. Basically re-sleeving is done by boring out the engine block to a very large oversize after witch the engineers will press in a whole new cylinder which brings the bore size back to original spec.
I had this done on my Moms w123 Mercedes and it worked a treat.

Your starting problem is not likely due to “fairly low compression,” your compression would have to be terrible for that to happen and you would have excessive oil consumption and lots of smoke.
A more likely culprit would be one of the following:
Incorrect valve or ignition timing
Failing fuel pump or dirty filters.
Poorly tuned Carburettors.
Also check that the dampers are filled with EP90, mine were filled with veg oil at one point. Since I changed it to EP90 it has been starting perfectly.

I hope this helps and please let us know how those head bolts work out.
James

jakeslouw
Posts: 458
Joined: 25 Jul 2008 10:53

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby jakeslouw » 03 Jul 2013 16:33

IMHO it would be faster, cheaper and easier just to throw the 6-cylinder on the dump and replace it with a turbo-diesel........

M&D conversion kit:

Product : Kits available for Land Rover series 1, II, & III vehicles
Part Number : kit 96A
Description : Ford FSD 2.5 Transit (6 cylinder Land Rover)
Price : £375 + vat

Kit comes with engine mounts, adapter, spigot bush, any required clutch activation arm mods, clutch & pressure plate.

http://www.mdengineering.co.uk/index.ph ... y&cat_id=2
1962 Series 2A Pickup
Ex: 1984 110 3.5 V8 Pickup
Ex: 1989 110 3.5 V8 County SW

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James21
Posts: 14
Joined: 27 Jul 2012 17:14
Location: Plettenberg Bay

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby James21 » 03 Jul 2013 19:27

Jakeslouw you are absolutely right it would be faster cheaper and easier to do a conversion, but those precious few of us that still do own complete all original classic Landys would like to keep them that way. The simple truth is that in a few decades original Series Land Rovers will become quite scarce and will start demanding much higher prices than ones that have undergone conversions.
Most of us only use them in the weekend so fuel economy isn’t huge factor, but yes if you are going to use a series Landy as a daily runner it is probably a good idea to do a conversion. Just don’t throw the old engine away, keep it so that if you decide to sell your landy the new owner will have everything he needs to convert it back to its original state.
Also choose your new engine very carefully as too powerful an engine can strain the gearbox. Also note that generally speaking gear ratios between petrol and diesel engines will be a bit different.

jakeslouw
Posts: 458
Joined: 25 Jul 2008 10:53

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby jakeslouw » 04 Jul 2013 07:56

Jakeslouw you are absolutely right it would be faster cheaper and easier to do a conversion, but those precious few of us that still do own complete all original classic Landys would like to keep them that way. The simple truth is that in a few decades original Series Land Rovers will become quite scarce and will start demanding much higher prices than ones that have undergone conversions.
Most of us only use them in the weekend so fuel economy isn’t huge factor, but yes if you are going to use a series Landy as a daily runner it is probably a good idea to do a conversion. Just don’t throw the old engine away, keep it so that if you decide to sell your landy the new owner will have everything he needs to convert it back to its original state.
Also choose your new engine very carefully as too powerful an engine can strain the gearbox. Also note that generally speaking gear ratios between petrol and diesel engines will be a bit different.
Fair enough, if you have a concours version. And if you want to own something just as an investment. Is that what Guido and JGP1980 want to do?
1962 Series 2A Pickup
Ex: 1984 110 3.5 V8 Pickup
Ex: 1989 110 3.5 V8 County SW

JGP1980
Posts: 4
Joined: 01 Jul 2013 00:16

Re: specs for R6 engine

Postby JGP1980 » 04 Jul 2013 10:13

Hey Jakeslouw. Sorry to be a let down but I'm with James21 on this one at the moment. The R6 in its original form is probably one of the rarer production LRs ever built, and i like the idea that mine is fully original. When I bought it I took on a project. If I had wanted a TDi I probably would have bought one in the first place. That's not to put down your thoughts on a TDi engine.....for most that would probably be the route to take, just not for me. Thanks for the advise James21.


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